Tooling up for your military vehicle

Owning an historic military vehicle means different things to different people. Some folks love every minute of the time and effort that goes into doing a complete restoration. For others, the main reason for owning an HMV is to drive it.

Since age 16 I’ve put many miles on various military vehicles, starting with my first of over a dozen jeeps, an M38. I drove my first M37 round-trip from Arizona to Alaska back when most of the Alaska Highway was unpaved, and have also owned a GTB, two M211s and two DUKWs. I have also worked on and driven many other military vehicles, and the most important thing I’ve learned from experience is that an HMV owner should be as self-sufficient as possible when it comes to tools and spare parts.

Secondly, one should always perform service and maintenance, such as oil changes and lube jobs, at regular intervals, usually depending upon mileage and how and where a vehicle is used. However, some maintenance tasks, such as changing antifreeze and brake fluid and checking battery water level, should be done on a timely basis no matter how much or how little a vehicle is driven. I have written many articles about general HMV maintenance as well as on the care and feeding of specific HMVs; but whether you have purchased an MB or GPW jeep, an M37, M715, CUCV, HMMWV or a deuce, there are basic tools and shop equipment needed to keep all of them mission capable. One should also bear in mind that many common HMVs are decades old and even the most basic parts and components, such as water and fuel pumps, generators, alternators, starters, fan belts, tune-up items, and often even head or tail lamp bulbs, won’t be found at most auto parts stores, so one should research parts suppliers, many of whom advertise in this magazine, and/or what may be found online. One should also possess, or learn, basic mechanical skills and how to troubleshoot and repair your vehicle.

Fortunately, most common HMVs are relatively simple machines and easy to work on, so one may learn as they go along. The best way to avoid trouble is to expect it, and when applied to historic military vehicles, this translates to every dollar and hour spent on service and preventive maintenance at home will usually save you ten times that much out in the field or on the road.

To begin, you should have a service and repair manual for your vehicle; and most such manuals are easily obtainable from advertisers in this magazine. You will also need a basic tool set and maintenance equipment, though specific tools and items may also be required depending upon the size and type of your vehicle. For most of the common U.S. military vehicles in the HMV hobby, a basic tool set should include the following:

#1. Combination wrenches, 5/16” to 13/16”
#2. 3/8” drive socket set, 5/16” to 13/16”, including a spark plug socket. And make sure the latter fits waterproof plugs if your HMV has them.
#3. 3/8” ratchet wrench
#4. 3/8 breaker-bar
#5. 3/8” socket extension 3-4 inches long
#6. 3/8” socket extension 6-8 inches long
#7. A pair of slip-joint pliers
#8. A pair of Channel-lock type pliers
#9. A pair of wire cutters or lineman’s pliers
#10. A pair of Vise-Grips
#11. 8 inch crescent wrench
#12. 10-12 inch crescent wrench
#13. A pipe wrench that opens farther than your largest crescent wrench
#14. Three or four good screwdrivers, including a Phillips-head. A good “four-in-one” screwdriver is also quite handy.
#15. A medium-sized ball-peen hammer
#16. A feeler gauge for setting spark plugs, ignition points and engine valve lash
#17. An ignition points file and/or some crocus cloth
#18. A pair of very small Channel-lock pliers for working on things like the distributor
#19. A small chisel
#20. A probe type electrical tester, one that’s right for your vehicle’s voltage

This is only a basic starter set, but I’ve found that most simple and emergency field repairs, and maintenance on most common U.S. HMVs, such as jeeps, MUTTS, M37s, WCs, M7I5s, GTBs, G506s, and deuces can be accomplished with these tools. This is also a good basic set to carry aboard these vehicles. However, tools are like money; it’s better to have a lot than not enough. And never buy cheap tools because they will usually break just when you need them most. Besides being prone to breaking, cheap wrenches and sockets may be too large or thick to fit some applications and/or may slip, damaging nuts, bolt heads and often your hands. For larger HMVs and/or for performing major repairs on all vehicles, you should have a 1/2” drive socket set ranging from 1/2” up to 1-1/2”, along with a ratchet, breaker bar and socket extensions. One should also add combination wrenches larger than 13/16” depending upon the largest nut or bolt you may need to remove.

On the other hand, one doesn’t have to use the acquisition of a military vehicle as an excuse to buy a $10,000 Snap-On rollaway box with enough tools to fix anything from a skateboard to a locomotive. Instead, unless you really want a big bunch of new tools -- many of which may never be used -- it will be a lot cheaper to wait and see what other tools you need as you perform repairs, restoration or rebuilds, and buy what you need when you need it. Also keep in mind that many special tools may be rented or borrowed, though borrowing (or lending) tools is sometimes a good way to lose friends.

The wisdom and economy of buying tools and maintenance items when you actually need them especially applies to things such as gear-pullers, slide-hammers, transmission jacks, and special wrenches. Also, keep in mind that while special tools may make a job faster and easier, they are not always necessary, and often using your own ingenuity will save having to buy a tool that you may only use once in 10 years. For example, while there are several special tools that make rebuilding a Dana 18 transfer case (used in most military jeeps) easier and faster, none are actually necessary.

One exception might be a spindle nut wrench for your specific vehicle. You can use a small chisel and a hammer to remove and tighten spindle nuts, but this practice tends to horrify some purist mechanics, especially those fortunate enough to have never been stranded a million miles from nowhere without every “proper” tool plus a shop coat, plastic gloves and appropriate mood music. Speaking for myself, I’ve found that the rattle of gunfire, the howling of wolves, the roar of lions or the rush of rising water has usually been sufficient to set my mood for making a repair with whatever tools I had. While I’m not an advocate of plastic gloves, or terrified of touching grease, oil or gasoline, safety glasses or goggles are wise, as is a good fire extinguisher.

In addition to tools, you should have some basic shop equipment, which will vary depending upon the size and type of your HMV. Such things should include a drop light for working under your vehicle. Like many people, I bought one of those halogen lights when they first began appearing in the 1990s, and I found it too bright, as well as too hot, and with an annoying tendency for the bulbs to break and cost more than the light itself to replace. I went back to using my old dimmer, but much easier on the eyes and reliable, bulb type light. And use a rough service bulb. You will also need rags… lots and lots of rags. Red cotton mechanic’s rags are best, but old cotton T-shirts, towels or washcloths will also work and may often be found at second-hand stores and flea markets. Polyester fabrics are useless because they won’t absorb anything. Yet, no matter how many rags you have, you will never have enough. Oily rags are an fire hazard and should be safely stored or disposed of.

You will need a jack and the proper size lug nut wrench for your vehicle’s wheels. Hydraulic jacks are the most versatile type, even if you equip your jeep with its correct mechanical jack. The size and weight of your vehicle will dictate the minimum capacity of your jack, but bigger is always better with jacks, so spend a few dollars more for a larger model than is actually required. I’ve had an ancient 12-ton hydraulic jack for over 40 years and it has always been useful when working on everything from jeeps to Caterpillars. While jack stands or ramps can be handy (and, again, bigger is usually better), I’ve found that a good selection of wooden blocks ranging from 2x4” to 8x8” to be much more versatile. Never use bricks or cinder blocks to support a vehicle because they can suddenly crumble.

You will need suitable pans for washing parts and draining engine and gear oil. You will also want a parts brush and a wire brush for cleaning, and also suitable containers in which to store and recycle used oil. In some communities, recycle containers are available free at places that sell motor oil. Speaking of oil, whether engine or gear, you can get a much better deal buying it in 5-gallon buckets from an oil company depot rather than in quarts or gallons from an auto-mart store. Likewise for tubes of grease… much cheaper by the case in the long run.

Of course you will also need a grease gun and a gear oil pump. As with all other tools and shop equipment, buy a good quality grease gun, and one with a flexible hose is usually the most versatile. In regard to gear oil pumps, while a small one may be sufficient for a jeep, MUTT or M37, a bigger pump for use with a 5-gallon bucket will save a lot of time if you have a deuce or other large HMV. You will also need appropriate funnels and oil-filler cans or spouts for your particular vehicle. If your vehicle is equipped with a spin-on type oil filter, you will need an oil filter wrench. I have found the steel band type to be the best, and don’t buy a cheap one that will bend or slip if a filter is stuck on tight.

For your vehicle or doing major repair work, you will probably find that a large selection of tin cans, ranging from tuna fish to coffee can size will be handy for storing nuts and bolts and small parts, as well as the extra nuts, bolts and items you will collect during a long association with your vehicle. Never throw anything away unless it’s totally broken or useless. If you keep your vehicle long enough, and/or acquire others, you will usually find uses for extra nuts, bolts, washers and parts. Also remember that one person’s trash can be another’s treasure, and that battered old fender, rusty headlamp bucket, drive shaft yoke or rusty pintle may be just what a fellow HMV enthusiast needs. An air compressor is handy, whether a shop type or a portable model. Again, don’t buy cheap compressors that may fail just when you need them. With a shop type compressor, as with most other things, bigger is better. Power tools, such as drills and grinders, can be bought if and when you need them. The same applies to a paint sprayer; again, buy a good one. I have never had good luck with a rented paint sprayer.

The owner of a large HMV should consider whatever special equipment they may need to service and repair their vehicle without ending up with a slipped disc or worse. You might be surprised to learn that one of the major causes of backaches in the HMV hobby comes from installing winches on WCs, M37s and M715s. And, except for the Warn Mil-Spec winches specific to the HMMWV, and the extremely rare military winches for jeeps, these are the smallest winches commonly found in the HMV hobby. The same applies to removing and installing transmissions, transfer cases and axle third members. To do such jobs safely (not only for your safety, but also the safety of your vehicle’s components), you need the right equipment. A strained back will usually heal, but a crack in a transmission’s case caused by falling onto a concrete floor won’t. If you feel you’re up to the task of dismounting split-rim wheels, you will need the correct tools.

Three of the most useful pieces of equipment for doing major work on HMVs are a chain hoist, a wire rope come-along, and a transmission jack. A very important factor to consider before using either of the first two items is the strength of your lift point — whatever you’re going to hang a hoist from. Most garage, shed or barn rafters were never intended for hoisting heavy objects or pulling vehicle engines, and unless you happen to be a structural engineer, it’s usually unwise to try to strengthen such rafters with additional wood or chained-on pipe. A smarter move is to buy, build (or have built) a lift point from sturdy timbers, stout pipe or steel beams.

How to design such an item and what to make it out of, is up to you. Only you know what you want it to do, though it would be wise to test it with a much greater weight than your vehicle’s engine or winch before attempting to use it. Related to this, always get a larger capacity hoist or come-along than the heaviest object you plan to lift. I don’t know how such equipment is rated, especially when it’s offered for home use, but I suspect it’s a crossed-finger test, and you don’t really want a ton of iron hanging from a cheap “1-ton” hoist! This also applies to cherry-pickers. Most such items offered in tool catalogs or on the internet are intended for small civilian vehicles and may not have either the reach or the safe capacity to remove a multifuel engine from a deuce-and-a-half. Like lubrication and oil change equipment, hoists, come-alongs and transmission jacks may often be found at swap-meets and flea markets for a fraction of their cost when new. In these cases you’ll want to inspect the items carefully before trusting them with your life and limb, as well as your vehicle’s components.

There’s an old saying that, a workman is only as good as his tools. On the other hand, as with many old sayings, there’s an opposing one that goes, It’s a poor workman who blames his tools. The best advice is to find a middle ground that satisfies both yourself and your HMV.  

Like maintenance articles? Here are a few more for your reading enjoyment.